April 5, 2009
Paris casts its spell
You will believe all the mythic qualities about the city when you soak in its grandeur
By Frankie Chee
SINGAPOREAN ABROAD IN PARIS WITH...
Ismelin Pang
Age: 28
Occupation: Unemployed
Length of stay: One year
Yes, what they say about Paris is true. The patisseries are legendary, the bi-annual shopping sales can get rowdy, and - despite it being a touristy cliche - the Eiffel Tower is not to be missed, especially at night when it lights up like a giant Christmas tree.
And yet, Ismelin Pang, a Singaporean who moved to the French capital about a year ago with her Singaporean husband, still managed to find surprises at every turn.
The 28-year-old, who is currently unemployed, has discovered quiet, romantic retreats in the city's gardens - Jardin des Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg.
A former white wine lover, she has also been converted to reds since encountering the limitless variety there, many of which are available in neighbourhood supermarkets.
And, contrary to popular belief that Parisians resolutely refuse to speak anything but French, you can get by with English as long as you stick to the main touristy areas, she says.
GETTING AROUND
The best way to explore Paris is...
On foot or the Metro. Each train trip costs about 1.60 euros (S$3.20), but you can buy 10 tickets for 11.40 euros. Also, if you are going to travel quite a lot within the city, I'd advise you to buy the weekly pass. It is about 17 euros for unlimited travel for a week. However, sales of the weekly pass start on Monday. So, even if you buy it on Wednesday, the pass will still end on Sunday.
The best time to visit is...
Between April and mid-June, or September and October. Other months, the place will be swarming with tourists or it will be too cold.
Which places in the city excite you?
The gardens during summer. There is Jardin des Tuileries, located in the First District near the Louvre, and Jardin du Luxembourg, located in the Sixth District. Paris is divided into 20 districts, so you will be able to find these gardens easily.
FOOD
Your favourite breakfast is...
At home. Parisians usually do not take anything but just a cup of espresso for breakfast. At times, I buy bread or pastries from a local boulangerie (bread shop) or patisserie (pastry shop) for breakfast.
Your favourite eating place is...
Leon de Bruxelles (95 Boulevard Gouvion St Cyr 75017 Paris, www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr ). It is not really French, but is one of my recommended places to eat when in Paris.
It is a Belgian restaurant offering mostly mussels. The ones cooked in white wine/Provencal style is my personal favourite, although there are other flavours to choose from. It comes in a huge pot with fries and baguette. I usually order it with cherry beer, but if cherry is not for you, a normal beer will do just fine.
The coolest place to chill out is...
This cosy place called La Patisserie Viennoise (8, Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine, 75006 Paris, Tel: +33-1-4326 6048) for coffee. Be sure to order their speciality - the coffee or chocolat viennoise. The coffee is served with a large dollop of freshly made cream which is absolutely delicious, although pretty unhealthy. Their pastries are just as good.
CULTURE
What do you think Singaporeans will like most about Paris?
Singaporeans who enjoy touring Europe and appreciate places that have a long history will find France is no exception.
What's the biggest difference between Singapore and Paris?
Singapore is a modern city with lots of skyscrapers, but I feel that our heritage is slowly dying out. Although Paris is a modern city, the government is active in maintaining its culture. For instance, some of the apartments date back to the 19th century or earlier.
Another difference is the pace of life in Paris. The queues at cashiers are slow-moving. Waiting to post something at the post office takes some time, and so is asking for the bill at a restaurant, unless it is not busy. Getting angry will not help you, just accept it because that is the norm and the way of life here.
Are there any language barriers?
The younger generation in Paris do speak a little English but some knowledge of French - 'thank you', 'good day', 'excuse me' - or some other simple expression is useful.
It is not a problem speaking English in the tourist areas, but living in Paris is a whole different thing. I am learning French now.
Where is the one place you always take your friends when they visit you?
The tourist spots, such as the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Hotel des Invalides, Notre
Dame, Pantheon and The Louvre - especially the Eiffel Tower at night, when it is lit up and resembles a huge illuminated Christmas tree. Very pretty.
What is the one thing you must do in Paris?
Taste the red wines. They are one of the best. I fell in love with French red wines when I came here, even though I was never a fan. I have now converted from white wine to red.
Some of my favourite wine regions are Cotes du Rhone, Saint-Emilion and Bourgogne. You can buy wines easily from a wine retailer called Nicolas, or at any supermarket.
Nicolas has retail chains at almost every street corner. If you are interested in wine-tasting, you can visit their wine bar Chai 24 (Cour St Emilion, 75012 Paris, www.nicolas.com ).
SHOPPING
Where is the best place to go on a shopping spree?
Depends on what you like. For fashion and glamour, I would recommend Boulevard Haussmann - a long street in the 8th District that is similar to Orchard Road, or the huge underground shopping centre Les Halles Shopping Centre, at the Les Halles metro station. You will find similar brands as in Singapore: Zara, Mango, Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, H&M, Sephora, and many more. If you are interested in branded products, they are definitely cheaper. A Louis Vuitton bag will cost S$1,200 in Singapore but S$800 in Paris, excluding tax rebate.
What would make a good souvenir of the city?
Chocolates. Some of the most delicious and famous local chocolates are from Pierre Herme (72 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, www.pierreherme.com ) , La Maison du Chocolate (19 rue de Sevres, 75006 Paris, www.lamaisonduchocolat.com ), Fauchon (26 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, www.fauchon.com ) and Valrhona (16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, www.valrhona.com ). Chocolates sold in the supermarkets are just as good. Another typically French treat is macarons, and you can get it from the famous Laduree (16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, www.laduree.fr ).
FESTIVAL TOWN
Are there any notable festivals that travellers should look out for?
Look out for the sale period in Paris. Bi-annual sales usually start at the end of June (summer sale) and the beginning of January (winter sale), lasting about six weeks each. You can check online for the full details.
FURTHER OUT
What is there to do or see outside the city?
If you have time to spare, set aside at least one day to visit the famous Mont Saint Michel in the north-west coast of France - a fort constructed in the 1880s to defend France against the English armies.
Or spend two or three days in the Loire Valley further south of Paris, about two to three hours by train, to see the beautiful castles. And, of course, if time permits, I recommend the south to Provence, which is my favourite. Provence is rich in history, has many picturesque small villages, and was home to the famous artist Van Gogh.
Mont St Michel is slightly less than an hour outside Paris, and Loire Valley is about 90 minutes away by car.
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