Sunday, March 29, 2009

STI: Say 'Uncle' for tasty claypot

March 15, 2009

Say 'Uncle' for tasty claypot

By Tan Hsueh Yun

 

While wandering around CityVibe mall in Clementi recently, I spied a sign from afar that said Uncle Sam's.

 

Must be some kind of American diner, I thought to myself. But it turned out to be an eatery serving claypot dishes. The place looked bright, clean and inviting, so I went in.

 

Well, as it happens, there is an American connection. The original eatery was started in Circular Road by one Sam Wong, an American Chinese. He sold off his business and since the mid-1990s, it has been thriving in the Afro Asia Building in Robinson Road, catering to the CBD crowd.

 

The eatery is spreading its wings with the CityVibe outlet and will open a third one later this year at City Square mall in Kitchener Road, says Mr Ben Cheng, business development director of Uncle Sam Gourmet, which runs the chain.

 

Now, the eatery at CityVibe is not fancy at all. But service is fast and efficient, the food is good for the price and, best of all, diners do not emerge sweaty and reeking of charcoal fumes.

 

Judging by how quickly my Boneless Chicken claypot rice ($8, bottom left) appeared, the rice had not been cooked from scratch in the claypot. But it sure tasted like it had been. There was the toasty rice on the side and that charcoal aroma that makes claypot rice so irresistible.

 

Yet the pot was not charcoal-fired, either. Mr Cheng says the effect is achieved using a specially built gas stove. The dark, soy-based sauce mixed in with the rice was aromatic, and the chicken pieces well seasoned and tender. Shiitake mushrooms, sliced Chinese sausages and a good helping of leafy greens made this a substantial and pretty satisfying meal.

 

At dinner a couple of days later, I sampled more of the menu. The Pork Rib claypot rice ($8, bottom right) was another winner. The ribs were tender, meaty and thoroughly infused with the marinade. The 'charcoal' flavour though, was not quite as pronounced this time.

 

Foo Chow Fishball ($5) soup came in an unremarkable broth but the pork-stuffed fishballs were delightfully smooth and bouncy. The filling was just fatty enough and perfectly seasoned.

 

Soupy Ee Mee ($6.50) served in a claypot will please those who want something comforting for dinner. The noodles came in a light broth and the pot was filled with shiitake mushrooms, sliced canned button mushrooms, shredded chicken, fish cake, fried shallots and an egg. The broth could have done with more salt, though.

 

The house special Tom Yam Seafood ($6.50) was spicy and sour but do not expect authentic Thai tomyam. Herbal Black Chicken soup ($5) was not robust enough for me, but those with more delicate palates might like it.

 

We had to make room for dessert and were not sorry we did. Tow Suan and Pulut Hitam ($2.50 each) were substantial helpings for the price. Both were far less sweet than we expected, and did not taste like throwaway additions to the menu.

 

The Pulut Hitam was rich and thick and the black glutinous rice still retained a pleasant chewiness.

 

My Ice Kacang ($2.50) was drenched in lurid green-, orange- and red-hued syrups. Nothing spectacular, but it did a good job cooling me down after all those hot soupy dishes.

 

THE UNCLE SAM'S CLAYPOTS

02-11/12 CityVibe, 3151 Commonwealth Avenue West, tel: 6778-3088

Open: 11am to 10pm daily

Food: ***

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