STI: Late-night treat

March 29, 2009

CHEAP & GOOD

Late-night treat

By Thng Lay Teen 

 

After finishing work late one recent Friday night, I found myself at the food centre in Toa Payoh Lorong 6, hoping to find something decent for dinner.

 

Most of the stalls were closed as it was already past 10.30pm but the zi char (cooked food) stall, Chuan Kee Seafood, located in a nearby coffee shop, was still open.

 

But it did not look promising as there was only one diner there. Too hungry to venture elsewhere, I ordered what the guy was eating: gong bao chicken with rice ($4).

 

It turned out to be better than expected: tasty, with a spicy sauce that was just hot enough to give a nice kick and enough boneless chicken meat to give me my money's worth.

 

Impressed, I returned the following night with my family.

 

This time, the coffee shop was pulsing with life as the tables in the open area outside were all filled.

 

The guifei beancurd ($7), which came with a topping of dried shrimp and minced pork, was good, with the deep-fried dark brown crispy coating a nice contrast to the silky-smooth homemade beancurd.

 

I ordered the gong bao chicken ($6) again and I could see my daughter relishing every morsel. One thing was lacking though - the cashew nuts that usually go with this dish.

 

The belly pork with pumpkin and potato ($8) did not disappoint though. The pork was cooked in a brownish sauce, using red fermented beancurd, oyster sauce and spices such as star anise and cinnamon, till almost dry. The tender meat slices were coated with the thick gravy. The pumpkin wedges, which were done just right and not mushy, added a natural sweetness to the dish.

 

This was one of the weekend specials, available as and when the chef decides to cook it.

 

The Nonya fish slices ($7), a signature dish, went well with rice. Despite its name, it was not cooked the authentic Peranakan way, but the Hokkien eatery's take on it was not too bad.

 

Apparently, the fish slices were blanched briefly in oil, then tossed well in a homemade sauce that had the right balance of sweetness, spiciness and sourness.

 

But not everything was good. For example, the signature ginger chicken ($7), which was strongly recommended, tasted more like the usual deep-fried chicken. The unmistakable fragrance of well-fried ginger was not there.

 

Still, the eatery, which goes by the Chinese name Quan Ji Hai Xian on its signboard, serves decent food at decent prices. You just need to know what to order.

 

CHUAN KEE SEAFOOD

Toa Payoh Lorong 6, Block 19

Open: 3 to 11pm daily

Rating: ***