April 14, 2009
insider tips Dijon
Where mustard is a must
You can find great food and wine in this French city rich in history
By deepika shetty
Located halfway between Switzerland and Paris, the French city of Dijon has an attractive mix of history and good quality of life, says Ms Anne-Marie Oleksy.
The 33-year-old from Vichy, France, lived there from 2002 to 2006 before moving to Singapore as representative for the Regional Council of Burgundy.
She loves Dijon for 'the great food and wines in the region and the ease with which I can reach Paris', adding that 'it is definitely one of my favourite French cities'.
Here are her tips on the best way to see the city.
THE PALACE OF THE DUKES
This impressive monument is called the town's crowning glory, and rightly so. From the roof of La Tour Philippe le Bon or Philip the Good's Tower, which is in the centre of the palace, it looks like the city is pretty much at your feet, she says.
The tower looks out over the town from a height of 46m and symbolises the prestige and power of the dukes of Burgundy.
The view is a dramatic jigsaw of church spires, copper domes, cathedrals and green parks. Here, Renaissance mansions jostle with Gothic churches.
The magnificent reception halls and impressive kitchens are home to the Fine Arts Museum, while the palace, rebuilt in 1668 to host the sessions of the States-General of Burgundy, is now occupied by the offices of the Dijon Town Council.
'It almost feels like one has been dropped into a historical novel in which every page is fascinating,' she says. 'Forget about being organised, forget about mapping out routes and itineraries. Just visit the palace and wander around in this pedestrian-friendly city.'
OTHER KEY CITY ATTRACTIONS
Built between 1738 and 1739, La Chapelle des Elus or Chapel of the Elected Representatives, with its lavishly sculpted walls, is one of the most interesting edifices from Louis XV's time.
The town houses, with their richly decorated facades, monumental gates, magnificent inner courtyards and varnished-tile roofs, distinguishes Dijon from other cities.
Dijon is also known as the 'town of a hundred spires' as it is home to many churches, monasteries, convents and other places of worship. Many of these are architectural delights.
SHOPPING
If you like shopping in malls, visit Galeries Lafayette and La Toison d'Or. Both house branded stores, boutiques, specialist chocolate shops and patisseries.
The city is also synonymous with mustard. Famous worldwide, Dijon mustard is made from the verjuice or juice of grapes and white wine. A bottle of mustard makes a perfect gift and you can get it from the famous mustard shop Amora Maille, located at La Toison d'Or.
To sample and buy local flavours, head to the traditional market, which is built in the style of the Paris market halls of the mid-19th century.
It is located in a stunning building featuring glass and ironwork. The top chefs in the city come here to buy the best and freshest produce.
FOOD
Restaurant Stephane Derbord (10 Place Wilson, 21000 Dijon, tel: +33-1-4572-0714) is an award-winning establishment run by Chef Stephane Derbord. The gourmet menu introduces some of the region's specialities presented in innovative ways.
Try the duck liver in a terrine and fresh scallops in pistachio oil. Chef Derbord also does a delectable sea bass lasagna with fennel and lemon-flavoured sauce.
Also visit Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge (5 rue Michelet, 21024 Dijon, tel: +33-1-8050-8888, www.chapeau-rouge.fr). Executive chef William Frachot's inventive and sophisticated menu, which offers a fusion of modern flavours and traditional produce, will amaze you.
If you are looking for a traditional French restaurant, there is Le Pre aux Clercs (13 Place de la Liberation, 21000 Dijon, tel: +33-1-8038-0505). Located in an 18th-century house, this is one of Burgundy's finest restaurants, with a history dating back to 1833.
Chef-owner Jean-Pierre Billoux has won acclaim with dishes such as crayfish prepared with aged sherry vinegar, and roasted duckling with gingerbread stuffing.
OFF TO THE VINEYARDS
Cote de Nuits is where wine-making gets serious. A visit to the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot with its 12th-century cellars is a must. Travel through the gold- and ruby-coloured vineyards before stepping into the cool cellars for a tasting session.
Enjoy some of the best wines in the world at the Route des Grands Crus, which is also known as the Champs Elysees of Burgundy for its red wines.
For details, visit www.sg.franceguide.com and www.dijon-tourism.com/uk/
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