April 12, 2009
India's Pearl City
Hyderabad is as famous for its pearl-processing centres as its mediaeval sights and excellent vegetarian fare
By Deepika Shetty
SINGAPOREAN ABROAD IN HYDERABAD WITH..
Kalyani Sukumar Iyer
Age: 26
Occupation: Senior manager
Length of stay: 3 months
Also known as the City of Nizams, Hyderabad is the capital city of the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.
The city of seven million people is home to ancient architectural wonders such as the 13th-century Golconda Fort as well as modern high-tech biotechnology firms.
Ms Kalyani Sukumar Iyer moved from Beijing to Hyderabad as senior manager with Spandana, India's largest microfinance institution. Ms Iyer, who is fluent in English, Mandarin, Hindi, Tamil and Italian says: 'Being here allows me, an Indian born and brought up in Singapore, to learn more about my Indian roots.'
GETTING AROUND
The best way to get around the place is...
By auto-rickshaws. These three-wheelers are easily available, and are metered and affordable. There is no well-developed bus or subway system.
The best time to visit the place is...
November to January. The weather is pleasant during the day and there is a slight chill at night. It is best to bring along a light cardigan.
It is dry all year and starts to get hotter from late March. April and May are unbearable, with temperatures rising to 40 deg C. The rains come around mid-June, giving a cooler respite from August.
Which places really excite you?
The Hussain Sagar lake, which has an 18m-tall granite Buddha statue in the middle. The statue can be reached by boat and from there you can enjoy a wonderful view of the city, especially at sunset. The lake is centrally located and there are a number of eateries around with great views.
Alternatively, you could take a fun boat ride in the lake or organise a private party on the boat itself.
Then there is KBR Park, a well-maintained paradise within the city. Located in the upscale residential area of Banjara Hills, the park is home to more than 500 plants, mammals, reptiles, peacocks and other birds. This is a great place for early morning runs and leisurely evening strolls.
Must one know the language to get around?
The people of Andhra Pradesh speak Telugu, and most people in Hyderabad also speak Hindi. It is possible to get by with English, though you cannot have a proper conversation with auto drivers or waiters in English. A Hindi phrasebook is a must.
CULTURE
The entire city has so much to offer, where does one start?
I would recommend the Birla Mandir, a temple dedicated to the Hindu deity Venkateshwara (Lord Vishnu) and which is built entirely from Makrana marble from Rajasthan. The view of the city from this hilltop structure is breathtaking, day or night.
Your favourite cultural stop is...
Shilparamam, an arts and crafts village where artisans from all over India converge. It sells pottery, fabric, jewellery and other traditional works. Shilparamam hosts annual bazaars, which are a real treat for those who want to buy authentic Indian crafts.
One cannot leave without visiting...
Charminar, which means 'four minarets'. Built in 1591, this monument was the gift of the powerful sultan Quli Qutb Shah to the people of Hyderabad. Its western section has a mosque.
SHOPPING
The best bargains are at...
Shilparamam (Madhapur, tel: + 91-40-2310-0455). You can get handcrafted items at reasonable prices.
The richest variety of products can be found at...
Lad Bazaar in Charminar. Here, you will find colourful lacquer bangles, perfumes, fabrics and pearls. You can spend the whole day shopping for cheap and expensive trinkets which cost as little as 5 rupees (15 cents).
If you are looking for high-quality pearls and diamonds, Mangat Rai Pearls (Cellar Taj Krishna, Road No. 1, Banjara Hills, tel: +91-04-2339-5015) is a good place to start.
Though it is not close to the sea, Hyderabad, which is also known as India's 'Pearl City', is famous for high-quality pearls processed here.
The one place you always take your friends to is...
FabIndia (Uma Enclave, Road No. 9, Banjara Hills, tel: +91-40-2335-4526). The store, which has branches all over the country, used to sell basic cotton and linen goods and fancier silk products. More recently, they have started selling pottery, furniture, organic food items and skin products.
FOOD
Don't leave the place without...
Trying Hyderabadi briyani, which is also available for vegetarians. Served with gravy on the side, this dish is generally quite spicy. Good briyani at reasonable prices is available at Hyderabad House (tel: +91-40-2311-8899). It has three outlets in Banjara Hills, Madhapur and Begumpet.
Also try the paneer peshwari at Zafran Exotica (Road No 12, Banjara Hills, tel: +91-40-6558-5500). Paneer is cottage cheese cooked with a tandoori paste and spices. It makes a great appetiser. I also love dhal tadka with bread or rice at Our Place (602/E, Charan Pahadi, Road No. 10 Banjara Hills, tel: +91-40-2335-3422). Dhal is lentils cooked with cream and fried spices.
Little Italy (Apollo X Road, Jubilee Hills, tel: +91-40-2355-8001) is Hyderabad's best Italian restaurant. It offers a purely vegetarian menu and has a good selection of wines.
The best breakfast is at...
Chutney's (tel: +91-40-2335-0569). For an authentic Indian meal, go for its steamed dosa, India's purely vegetarian answer to pancakes. It is healthy and goes well with the wide range of chutneys available there. The restaurant offers nine different types of chutneys, including coconut, tomato, sesame and mint. Chutney's is found at three locations: Road No. 36 Jubilee Hills, Panjagutta Circle and Himayath Nagar.
The best brunch is at...
Okra in Hyderabad Marriot (Hyderabad Marriott, Tank Bund Road, Opposite Hussain Sagar Lake, tel: 91-40-2752-2999), which serves a wide selection of Indian and continental dishes together with champagne. Food is served by the poolside.
The best dinner is at...
Zafran Exotica (Road No. 12, Banjara Hills, tel: +91-40-6558-5500). It has a wonderful zen ambience and has an excellent menu of both North and South Indian favourites.
SUNDOWNERS
The best drinks are at...
The Bridge Bar in the Marriott (Hyderabad Marriott, Tank Bund Road, Opposite Hussain Sagar Lake, tel: 91-40-2752-2999), which has a great view of the Hussain Sagar Lake.
What is the one must-try drink in town?
Coconut juice. Roadside vendors will chop open a young green coconut and stick a straw in it, giving you a refreshing drink. A coconut costs less than 10 rupees.
What's the coolest place to chill out?
Mocha (574/B, Road No 7, Banjara Hills, tel: +91-40-2335-0133), which is a hit with youngsters. This is a two-storey cafe in a converted colonial house. It has a good selection of coffees and desserts.
FURTHER OUT
What's there to explore?
Hyderabad is well-connected to most parts of India, given its central location. Head down south to explore popular tourist states such as Kerala, known for its rejuvenating Ayurvedic herbal spas.
Any other sights which would appeal to Singaporeans?
Hyderabad is home to the Ramoji Film Studio (Hayat Nagar, tel: +91-40- 6522-3370), listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's largest film studio. It is more than 800ha - about 1,000 football fields - in size.
Visitors get a chance to see props, film locations and equipment seen in popular Indian films. A full day is needed to get the most out of this fun family excursion.
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