BTO: Lebanese fare for healthnuts

Business Times - 06 Apr 2009

Lebanese fare for healthnuts

NEW RESTAURANT

SanoBar
80 Mohamed Sultan Road
#01-03 The Pier at Robertson.
Tel: 6423-9182.
www.sanobar.com.sg

 

GIVEN the general dearth of Lebanese fare in Singapore, a place like SanoBar is worth its weight in hummus because it will appeal to diners who appreciate authentic Middle Eastern food as well as those in search of some culinary adventure.

 

SanoBar (which means pine nuts in Lebanese) is only a recent addition to the food scene around Robertson Quay, but astute observers will recognise it as a reincarnation of a similarly named eatery at One Fullerton, where it thrived for three years before succumbing to the economic downturn at the end of last year.

 

The new SanoBar is a joint venture between Diana Salem, who started the original restaurant, and Wolfgang Lapper, the veteran restaurateur whose Esmirada Group focuses primarily on Mediterranean-themed cuisine. SanoBar is located in a space previously occupied by Chiara, an Italian restaurant that didn't quite work out for Lapper.

 

In addition to the menu, which features a selection of bistro-style Lebanese dishes that reflect their Arabic and Eastern Mediterranean roots, visitors to SanoBar will be beneficiaries of the convivial atmosphere and the considerable charms of Salem, quite probably the only restaurant owner in town who is also a professional belly dancer.

 

Salem, who turns 24 in April, started belly dancing at 14 and was a top professional just two years later. She left Beirut for Sydney before coming here about five years ago, where she was able to indulge in her twin passions of food and dancing. She still teaches belly dancing and performs at special events but now spends most of her time making sure that her two-week-old restaurant is operating smoothly.

 

Lebanese food is regarded as one of the healthiest cuisines in the world and features an abundance of fresh greens, salads and vegetables along with grilled meats and seafood. As with many of the cuisines from this part of the world, a Lebanese meal is likely to start with a serving of mezze, or tapas-style dishes of both the hot and cold variety, that are accompanied by a ubiquitous basket of flat pita bread.

 

These can be ordered individually or on a platter, and will include typical items such as baba ghanouj (charcoal-grilled eggplant), moutabbel (grilled eggplant), hummus (dip made from chickpeas and other vegetables), falafel (spiced deep-fried patties made from chickpeas with onion, garlic, coriander and cumin) and stuffed grape leaves. Individual dishes are priced between $12 and $15, while platters can also be arranged for sharing.

 

The mezze is practically a meal in itself but if you have room for a main or two, the meat dishes are equally appetizing. Starting with chef Mohamed Slim's signature marinated grilled lamb chops ($26) and extending to the charcoal-grilled lamb and chicken kebabs and Lebanese stews such as the mouloukhieh (vegetable stew - $21) and lamb shank with couscous ($32), the food is uncomplicated and flavourful, with few surprises in store for diners familiar with Middle Eastern spices. A variety of Lebanese sweets and pastries, such as baklava, will round off the meal. Simple set lunches are available at $18.

 

Some items, such as chickpeas and spices, are imported from Lebanon, and it is also possible to order (in advance) a whole roasted lamb, which is popular with large groups.

 

Salem also recommends a glass or two of arak - the anise-flavoured liqueur that is a Lebanese staple - with the meal, and it should do something to enhance the experience.

 

The owner also displays her multi-tasking skills when it comes to the restaurant interior, which is decorated in rich colours, woven cushions and stained glass lanterns. As SanoBar settles in for a second run in smaller premises, Salem is confident that her new restaurant will be able to ride out the current downturn. It may be early days yet but so far, the signs are encouraging.

 

Rating: 7/10
By Geoffrey Eu